A High-Altitude Journey on the World's Deadliest Road
The Manali Highway in the Himalayas, India, is known globally as one of the most dangerous roads. Famous for its breathtaking landscapes and equally terrifying road conditions, this treacherous route puts even the most seasoned adventurers to the test. In a recent journey documented by a brave group of riders, they encountered the full scale of what it means to traverse this perilous highway. From navigating hairpin turns on the edge of cliffs to being stuck in a traffic jam at over 16,000 feet, this adventure proved to be nothing short of extraordinary.
A Wild Start on the Manali Highway
As the group begins their journey along the notorious Manali Highway, it quickly becomes apparent why this road has earned its fearsome reputation. The first 30 kilometers are packed with constant near head-on collisions, aggressive truck drivers overtaking on blind corners, and animals wandering freely on the narrow road. Herds of goats crossing the road without a care in the world add to the chaos, as do the trucks that barrel down the lane, often disregarding any sense of traffic rules.
Despite the manic environment, the group reaches their first fuel stop with just 9 kilometers left in their tanks. While they carry extra fuel as a backup, the narrow margin between safety and running dry adds an extra layer of tension to their journey. With a fuel tank that holds 17 liters and a remarkable 70 miles per gallon, their Royal Enfield Himalayans are well-equipped for such long stretches between petrol stations.
Navigating the Fuel Stops and Planning for Adventure
For any adventurer taking on the Manali Highway, meticulous planning is essential. The group emphasizes the importance of plotting fuel stops and having contingency plans. On this journey, a 30-kilometer detour was necessary just to ensure they could fuel up for the next leg. "Plan, plan, and plan that your plan won’t work," they advise, highlighting the unpredictable nature of this high-altitude adventure.
In addition to fuel planning, it’s crucial to take care of the machines. The Himalayas are brutal, remote, and aggressive, and breaking down in such an environment could quickly turn into a survival situation.
The Traffic Jam at 16,000 Feet
The most grueling part of their journey, however, is the 4-hour traffic jam at over 16,000 feet. As they attempt to make their way up a narrow mountain pass, they encounter complete gridlock. Trucks and cars are jammed in both directions, with no one willing to give way. The lack of proper traffic management leads to a chaotic situation, where the military eventually steps in to direct traffic. Despite the absurdity of the situation, the group pushes through, slowly making their way past stuck vehicles, narrow cliff edges, and countless obstacles.
At such high altitudes, oxygen becomes scarce, and altitude sickness is a real danger. The riders carry oxygen cans, which they use periodically to stave off the symptoms of altitude sickness. "It’s a good idea to have a can of oxygen on hand, especially when you're above 15,000 feet," they advise, recounting their own experiences of breathlessness and fatigue during the traffic jam.
Reaching the High Passes
After the traffic jam clears, the group continues their ascent, passing through some of the most awe-inspiring mountain passes in the Himalayas. They reach Nakeela Pass at 15,547 feet and Lachungla Pass at a staggering 16,616 feet. The view from the top is nothing short of majestic, with prayer flags flapping in the wind and snow-capped peaks in the distance. The beauty of the surroundings provides a brief respite from the harshness of the road.
Checkpoints and Permits: A Necessary Hassle
Traveling through the Himalayas also means dealing with numerous military checkpoints. Foreign travelers must have their visas and permits in order, as certain areas require special permission to enter. For the group, getting their permits was a straightforward process, costing about 1,000 rupees, but they advise others to carry multiple copies of these permits since they are often collected at checkpoints.
The Importance of Choosing the Right Bike
One of the key takeaways from the journey is the importance of choosing a reliable motorcycle. The Royal Enfield Himalayan, designed specifically for these kinds of rugged terrains, proves to be a solid choice. With its large fuel tank and durable build, it’s able to withstand the demands of the Himalayas. However, the group also encounters several travelers on older motorcycles who were less fortunate. One rider, whose swingarm bolt failed, had to make a roadside fix with a ratchet strap and a stone to hold the bike together. While resourceful, this incident underscores the importance of riding a well-maintained bike.
Staying Healthy at High Altitude
Altitude sickness is a constant threat on the Manali Highway, and the group makes several stops to check their oxygen levels. At over 16,000 feet, oxygen levels in the blood can drop dangerously low, and it’s crucial to monitor symptoms early. One rider, Dan, had to spend two hours on oxygen after his levels dropped significantly. For anyone planning to undertake a similar journey, carrying a portable oxygen monitor and being aware of the symptoms of altitude sickness is vital.
Conclusion: A Journey of a Lifetime
After over 10 hours of riding, three mountain passes, and a grueling 4-hour traffic jam, the group finally arrives at their destination, exhausted but exhilarated. As the sun sets behind the mountains and they settle into their eco-lodge for the night, they reflect on the day's challenges and triumphs. This journey along the Manali Highway will undoubtedly be one they remember for the rest of their lives.
The Manali Highway is not for the faint-hearted, but for those who seek adventure, breathtaking landscapes, and the thrill of conquering one of the world’s most dangerous roads, it’s an experience like no other.
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